Publisher's Weekly Review
Where to keep this book? In the kitchen, to make use of its more than 100 recipes, or on the coffee table--to pore over the photographs? Willan ( French Regional Cooking ), founder of La Varenne cooking school, has produced an exquisite book with Baker ( The Natural Cuisine of Georges Blanc ), distilling the architectural, political and gastronomical history of France in the form of the chateau, past and present. Which chateaux? The 34 exemplars profiled here range from storybook castles to elegant working farms. Willan offers tantalizing glimpses into their history and considers how current occupants cope with maintaining them. (Says one, Rene Picard, ``If we were to take the road to ruin, we decided to do it with panache!'') As for the recipes, many were developed in the kitchens of the chateaux, calling on local produce and wines, and range from the traditional (blanquette de veau) to the less so (a whole baked truffle in pastry). Willan has thoughtfully provided substitutes in some recipes for readers whose hearts--or pocketbooks--won't allow them to use a noble Sauterne or a pheasant. The recipes are for those already in the know, and terminology is largely British. However, a useful glossary is included, along with a list of addresses and visiting hours for the chateaux. (Sept.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Booklist Review
Willan leads a tour through French chateaus that spans the country from seaside locales to mountain retreats. She affords a delightful opportunity to indulge one's appetite for the beauty of these grand estates--with Christopher Baker's photographs exemplifying the luxuriant interiors, magical architecture, and beautifully prepared cuisine associated with chateau life and with French gastronomic bliss. But this is not simply a visual feast, for the more than 100 recipes for haute cuisine dishes will tantalize sophisticated cooks. And travelers to France will appreciate the listing of addresses and the details provided by those owners who open their chateaus to the public and provide accommodations, wine tastings, or tours. ~--Alice Joyce
