Choice Review

Many food experts consider the French concept of "terroir" to be at best vague and at worst undefinable. In this intelligent analysis of the concept, however, former chef and current University of Vermont anthropologist Trubek aids in stabilizing a term that is admittedly semantically fluid. Essentially, she does so by comparing French and American uses of the concept. In traditional terms, "terroir" can be defined as those factors that give a distinctive taste to foods grown, raised, or otherwise produced in a particular geographical region. French usage reflects this view and emphasizes such physical factors as soil type, climate, and altitude, as well as such technological and cultural factors as long-standing artisanal techniques and traditions of various regions of the country. In the US, however, little emphasis is placed on the influence of distinctive physical factors. Furthermore, the US has few indigenous artisanal techniques or traditions. Consequently, according to Trubek, the American view of terroir is sort of a postmodern work in progress, which emphasizes the taste of place through the development of regional cuisines. These cuisines are developed by a collaboration between small-scale farmers and chefs dedicated to creating dishes which showcase locally grown ingredients. Summing Up: Recommended. General readers, professionals, and practitioners. D. M. Gilbert Maine Maritime Academy