Cover; Contents; Front Matter; Title Page; Publisher Information; Preface and Acknowledgements; Introduction -- Thoroughfare and Nation; Birth and Rebirth of a Nation; Portbou and Montserrat: Sea and Mountain; Ghost Town; Stephen Spender's Divided Heart; Trapped: Walter Benjamin's Last Night; Dark Lady of the Mountains: Montserrat; Mediterranean, the Centre of the Earth: Tarragona; The City that Speaks Latin; Empúries: "whispering centuries of ghosts"; Wetlands: the Empordà; Romanesque Catalonia: The Pyrenees; Hispanic Marches; Barrel Vaults and Towers; The Boí Valley.

Besalú and Girona: the Jewish TragedyGlory and Rapine: Poblet and Athens; "A great feudal monastery"; Peace and Conquest; Imperial Rapine; The Poet-Priest and the Indiano: Verdaguer and Antonio López; The Renaissance; Peasant Son and Poet; Triumph and Fall; The Slave-Trading Philanthropist; The Lancashire of Spain: Gaudí and Güell; Putting out the Fires of Revolt; Indianos; Santa Coloma Colony; The Chapel in the Woods; Geniuses; Fleeing the Straight and Narrow: Gaudí and Reus; Reus: Wealth in Stone; Gaudí; Gaudí's Reputation; Palau Güell; Sant Pau and the Sagrada Família.

The Birth of Modern Painting: Rusiñol at Sitges, Casas and Pablo PicassoThe Iron Burrow; Darwin's Monkey; The Vertical Invader; The Terminal Beach: Salvador Dalí; Castle and Theatre: Figueres; Ambivalent Legacy; Cadaqués; Feet Rooted to the Red Earth: Joan Miró; The Man Who Could Not Draw; Fundació Miró; I Come from a Silence: Catalan Music; Raimon; Chimes to the Dead; Traditional Roots; Yearning Havanera and Sexy Rumba; Tourism and War; The Sweaty Groin: Barcelona's Raval; Chinatown; Squalor and Gentrification; Rambling; The Gothic Quarter, Barcelona; The Museum-City; Cathedral and Cloister.

Plaça del ReiSanta Maria del Mar; Mass Migration and Mass Tourism: Lloret; Contested Spaces; City of Noise; Package Holidays and the Changing Costa Brava; Lloret; Plain and River: Lleida and the Ebro; City of the Plain; Mequinensa: Drowned Town; Yellow Fog along the Ebro Valley; A Dying Delta; The Anarchist Dream: George Orwell and Revolution; Rose of Fire; Revolutionary Days: Orwell in Catalonia; Crushing the Revolution; The Landscape in the Pot: Food, Drink and Identity; Cava; Catalan Cuisine; The Boqueria: the Religion of Food; The Dalí of Cuisine; Cradle and Refuge: FC Barcelona.

Triumph and TragedyFootball and Nationalism; Catalonia is not Spain; End Matter; Further Reading; Glossary; Also Available.