Booklist Review

Devotees of Italy's celebrated rice dish will rush this book into their kitchens and start chopping and stirring. Harris briefly recounts the history of rice culture in Italy, which began in the fourteenth century. Arborio rice, which most cooks use for risotto, was developed only in 1946. Other varieties of the grain show off their special characteristics in regional versions of risotto. After the rice itself, a proper stock is critical to risotto's success. Harris gives directions for making everything from a simple chicken stock to game and fish varieties. She pursues the traditional method of risotto cookery rather than the contemporary microwave method. Besides the expected risotti, there is an exceptional gorgonzola version with fried sage leaves. Using vegetable stock, one can make a hearty bean-and-cabbage risotto that is perfect for a vegetarian. For the avant-garde cook, Harris offers a strawberry risotto as well as one made with Italy's premium Barolo wine. --Mark Knoblauch