Cover -- Endorsement -- Half Title -- Title Page -- Copyright Page -- Dedication -- Table of Contents -- List of Figures -- Acknowledgements -- Part 1 Cuisine in Athens -- 1 An Anthropologist's Journey in a City of Ashes -- The Metamorphosis of Greek Cuisine -- The Arrival Scene -- Athens-in-crisis -- What Is Cuisine? -- Cuisine, Sociability and Identity -- Cuisine, Foods and Foodways -- Cuisine, Memory and the Senses -- Navigating Athens and Making Ethnography -- Chapters of Metamorphosis -- Notes -- References -- 2 The Smell of the Greek Rural: Greek Cuisine in the 19th and 20th Century -- The Revolution of Trahanas -- Rural Revulsion -- The Smell of the Barn in Athenian Kitchens -- The Taste of Ancient Greek Identity -- Delicacies With a Heavy Eastern Accent and the Invention of Moussakas -- Rural Celebration -- A Cuisine of Need and Nature at Times of Hardship -- The Exoneration of the Greek Rural -- Notes -- References -- Part 2 Cuisine in Delis -- 3 Delis of Distinction: Artisanal Foods and the Middle-Class Hunger for Identity -- Trahanas Is the New Foie Gras -- The Taste of Greek Artisanal Foods -- Strawberry Jam With Ouzo and Modernity -- New Artisanal Cheeses and Nostalgia -- Sifnos Manoura Cheese and Tradition -- Cretan Cured Meats, Purity and Health -- Dolmadakia, Halva, Convenience and Exclusivity -- Greek Yoghurt and Terroir -- The Middle-Class Hunger for Identity -- Kavourmas and Local Knowledge -- Social Shopping -- The Butcher as Your Boyfriend -- The Taste of Rurality -- Notes -- References -- 4 Inside Hara Deli's Kitchen: Commensality at Times of Crisis -- The Salty Cod Fritters -- Hunger for Commensality -- Recipes of Commensality -- Foods and Togetherness -- Cold Sausages and Warm Bread -- Cooking Commensality -- Omelettes and Care -- Leftovers at the Back, Opulence in the Front -- Remembering and Sensing Commensality.

Singing With Taramosalata and Tsikoudia -- The Greek Stone Soup -- Notes -- References -- 5 The Case of the Greek Olive Oil -- Olive Oil in Luxury Bottles -- Olive Oil Mythologies -- Olive Oil in the Greek History -- Olive Oil in the Greek Cosmology -- Olive Oil Travels -- Olive Oil in Tins -- Olive Oil at Supermarkets -- Olive Oil in Delis -- Olive Oil as Local, Regional and National -- Olive Oil Failures -- Notes -- References -- Part 3 Cuisine in Restaurants -- 6 Sheep's Heads Covered in Gold: Chefs and the Creation of High Cuisine -- Varvakeios -- In Belize -- A Rural Cuisine Settles in the City -- Cooking a High Cuisine -- Wild Greens That Preserve Culinary Values -- Vegetables That Reconnect Social Foodways -- Greek Pies That Revalorise Rural Cuisine -- Stuffed Vegetables That Reinvent Tradition -- Greek Salads That Deconstruct and Reconstruct the Rural -- Dakos Rusks That Reaffirm Boundaries -- Gold Sheep's Heads That Renegotiate Belonging -- A New Greek High Cuisine -- Notes -- References -- 7 The Taste of the Greek Past: The Senses, Memory and Food Nostalgia -- Octopus With Pasta -- The Ghosts of the Athenian Past -- Nostalgia for Mother's Food -- Metamorphosis of Foods Past -- Navigating the Bad Smells of the Past -- A Sensorial Resynthesis of the Past -- Chronotopic Smells and Tastes -- Collective Smells and Tastes -- A Visceral Exoneration of the Rural -- Notes -- References -- 8 Tales From Athenian Restaurant Kitchens: A Fine-Dining Cuisine of Need -- The Chef, the Fish, His Cook and Her Crisis -- The Staff-Only Doors of Desire -- Against the Wall of Urban Need -- On a Cook's Body and Soul -- Once in Liminality -- Mr. Violence -- The Broken Circle and the End of Liminality -- Cooking Inner Darkness -- Fight Club of Cooks -- Raw Food, Blood, Humiliation and Care -- Synecdoche, Athenian Restaurant Kitchens -- Notes -- References.

Part 4 The Metamorphosis of Greek Cuisine -- 9 Epilogue: Rural Remedy -- A Crisis Within a Crisis Within a Crisis -- Revalorising Denigrated Rural Foods and Traditional Dishes -- Reinventing Greek Identity -- A Sensorial Ethnography -- Collective Belonging -- Note -- References -- Index.