Excerpts

KALE YOGURT RAITA All seasons * Serves 6 to 8  This recipe is based on a spinach raita that was prepared by my friend Asha's mom. It's also loosely inspired by Greek tzatziki, which is usually made with cucumbers, chopped garlic, and lemon. It's creamy and indulgent, and you can use it as a dip or eat it plain or with a meal.  I often make this raita with sautéed kale, using any and all varieties--curly, red, and lacinato--and have also substituted different greens such as spinach, tatsoi, or mizuna in this recipe.  You can eat the raita as a dip, or serve it as a side with rice and one of the hulis on pages 131 to 137.  1 tablespoon mild-flavored oil such as canola  1⁄4 teaspoon black mustard seeds  1⁄4 teaspoon cumin seeds  3 fresh curry leaves  1 Indian green chile or serrano chile, chopped  1 clove garlic, minced  2 cups stemmed, chopped kale leaves  1⁄4 to 1⁄2 teaspoon salt  Squeeze of lemon juice  2 cups plain yogurt, lightly beaten by hand  2 tablespoons sour cream or Greek yogurt  Freshly ground black pepper  Red chile powder or paprika, for garnish  Put the oil in a small frying pan or sauté pan over medium heat. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add one black mustard seed. When the seed sizzles and pops, add the rest of the mustard seeds. Keep a lid handy to cover the pan while the mustard seeds are popping. When the popping starts to subside (a few seconds), add the cumin seeds. When the cumin seeds turn a darker shade of golden brown, turn the heat to medium-low. Rub the curry leaves between your fingers a little to release their natural oils, and drop them and the green chile into the oil. Cover immediately, as moisture from the curry leaves will cause the oil to spatter. Then stir to evenly coat everything with oil and continue to fry until the chile is less raw, 10 to 15 seconds. Stir in the garlic and sauté until fragrant, 10 to 15 seconds.  Add the kale to the pan, followed by 1⁄4 teaspoon of the salt. Sauté until the kale is bright green in color and just wilted, 1 to 2 minutes. Add one good squeeze of lemon juice. Transfer the kale to a medium bowl and let cool. (I sometimes put it in the freezer for a few minutes if I'm in a rush.)  When the kale is cool, mix it with the yogurt, sour cream, and remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, or to taste. Garnish with a few grinds of pepper and a sprinkling of red chile powder on top before serving. Excerpted from Vibrant South India: Fresh Vegetarian Recipes by Chitra Agrawal All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.