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Summary
Summary
Recipes from the back rooms and basement bakeries that produce Europe's best breads.
When Daniel Leader opened his Catskills bakery, Bread Alone, twenty years ago, he was determined to duplicate the whole-grain and sourdough breads he had learned to make in the bakeries of Paris. The bakery was an instant success, and his first book, Bread Alone, brought Leader's breads to home kitchens.
In this, his second book, Leader shares his experiences traveling throughout Europe in search of the best artisan breads. He learned how to make new-wave sourdough baguettes with spelt, flaxseed, and soy at an organic bakery in Alsace; and in Genzano, outside of Rome, he worked with the bakers who make the enormous country loaves so unique that they have earned the Indicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP), a government mark reserved for the most prized foods and wines. Leader's detailed recipes describe every step that it takes to reproduce these rare loaves, which until now were available strictly locally.
32 pages of color illustrations.
Author Notes
Dan Leader teaches bread-making at the Institute of Culinary Education in New York City and is an adjunct professor at the Culinary Institute of America
Reviews (3)
Publisher's Weekly Review
Leader's new bread-baking book is distinguished from his earlier classic Bread Alone by its focus on regional specialties, from the Alsatian classic pain au levain to Tuscan black olive puccia, from German laugenbrezeln or pretzels to the dark Silesian rye of the Czech Republic. The book opens with 50 pages of well-written and thorough instructions on everything from ingredients to equipment. The most helpful part is the explanation of the basic steps of any bread-making process, which serves as a primer on the procedural elements that are universal across the various European traditions. Leader, who founded the heralded Bread Alone bakery in Woodstock, N.Y., is most interested in teaching holistically, so that his readers will feel comfortable becoming apprentices and then experts themselves. One can't help imagining, however, that bread baking is best learned in the flesh. Leader advises that the only way to figure out if the "dough is ready is through experience," and a hapless home baker might agree. Still, the book is an excellent primer on the best breads of Europe, and the traveler who has returned home with a longing for the Roman specialty pane di altamura might be satisfied with a mouth-watering trip down memory lane. (Aug.) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Booklist Review
After perusing the remarkable recipes in Leader's compilation of the best of Europe's artisanal breads, only the most resolutely self-controlled baker will be able to resist marching to the kitchen to reproduce one of these captivating loaves. Leader explains how to create a sourdough from airborne yeasts, and he uses that starter for many of these breads to yield superior, deep flavor and thick, crunchy crusts. Ranging from baguettes to chocolate croissants, from Italian ciabatta to dark Silesian rye, and from Czech country bread to potato pizza, these recipes give access to bread bakers' highest art. For those lacking the courage and patience to ferment a real sourdough starter, Leader offers several different shortcuts to success. Line drawings guide the novice, and full-color photographs render ideals for Leader's students to emulate. Question-and-answer sections throughout the book succinctly clarify potential problem areas. Leader's Auvergnat blue cheese rye rolls alone make this book a must for devotees of the baker's art.--Knoblauch, Mark Copyright 2007 Booklist
Library Journal Review
Leader (Bread Alone: Bold Fresh Loaves from Your Own Hands), the owner of Bread Alone in Woodstock, NY, has written another book on artisanal bread for serious bakers. There is a lot of information here for those interested in the art and science of bread, including details on ingredients, equipment, starters (many of the recipes are sourdoughs), and bread history. Each recipe includes a timetable, background on the specific type of bread, a list of equipment, and a table with ingredients measured four ways: by volume, U.S. weight, metric weight, and as a baker's percentage. The recipes themselves represent a crusty tour through Europe, starting in Paris (of course) and proceeding through Tuscany, Rome, down into the heel of Italy, back up through Germany, and into the Czech Republic. As the recipes often first require 12-24 hours to make the sourdough or starter, followed by several more hours of fermenting and proofing time, these are not for the hurry-up cook. Purchase where there is interest.-Susan Hurst, Miami Univ. of Ohio, Oxford (c) Copyright 2010. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.
Table of Contents
List of All the Recipes in This Book | p. viii |
Acknowledgments | p. x |
Introduction | p. 3 |
Chapter 1 Ingredients and Equipment for Making European Artisan Breads at Home | p. 15 |
Chapter 2 Bread Recipes, Step by Step | p. 26 |
Chapter 3 Making and Using European Starters and Sourdoughs at Home | p. 41 |
Chapter 4 Read This First: Frequently Asked Questions about Making Bread | p. 50 |
Chapter 5 From Baguette Normal to Eric Kayser's Cutting-Edge Batards: Real Parisian Breads, Old and New | p. 60 |
Chapter 6 Organics in Alsace: Rediscovering Pain au Levain at Fabiopain | p. 103 |
Chapter 7 The Auvergne: Surprising Wheats and Ryes from Two of France's Meilleurs Ouvriers | p. 135 |
Chapter 8 Verona and Tuscany: Biga, Doppio Zero, and Regional Italian Breads | p. 162 |
Chapter 9 The Pride of Genzano: Italian Country Bread with a Government Seal of Approval | p. 191 |
Chapter 10 Il Fornaio and Italian Independent Bakers: Baking Local, from Rome to the Dolomites | p. 210 |
Chapter 11 Untouched by Time: The Singular Case of Pane di Altamura | p. 246 |
Chapter 12 In Search of Authentic German Ryes: High-Tech and Whole-Grain Baking across Germany and Austria | p. 269 |
Chapter 13 Discovering New Ryes in the Czech Republic and Poland and Remembering My Grandparents' Light Rye | p. 301 |
Mail-Order and Online Resources | p. 333 |
Index | p. 335 |