Booklist Review

Bourdain, who broke into the collective food consciousness with Kitchen Confidential (2000) and has since cemented his place as one of our foremost food commentators, offers the kind of book you can write only if you've achieved the level of fame at which you can assume that people care about about whatever you have to say (which they do, and should): a loose, sometimes repetitive, always entertaining, and even at times enlightening collection of food-related ramblings and name-naming hit-pieces. The result is more or less the book equivalent of finding yourself sharing plates at a communal table with a chatty, witty, unapologetically profane, knowledgeable and well-connected member-observer of the restaurant big leagues. If, like him, you see the world's greatest chefs as somewhere between rock and porn stars, there's no way you wouldn't spend hours listening to him chew your ear off with stories of that coke-fueled weekend (or was it a month?) trapped on an island with the world's most insufferably wealthy food posers and with diatribes on how annoying Alice Waters is and how critic Alan Richman is a douchebag (the nicer of the two things Bourdain calls him) for trashing the New Orleans food scene with the city still reeling from Katrina and then turn on a dime to deliver an impassioned ode to Vietnamese pho and an admiring portrait of perhaps the world's finest fish-portioner at Le Bernardin. It might have been a narcissistic, condescending, and overly insiderish collection if it weren't for Bourdain's consistently disarming self-awareness that he's the very picture of the jaded, overprivileged foodie' (in the worst sense of that word) that he used to despise. On seeing himself through the eyes of a hungry young chef who still has to actually cook just to barely survive, he says, Look at me and my nice fucking jacket, standing there all famous and shit. Sure, others may cook better than he does, but no one can dish like he can.--Chipman, Ian Copyright 2010 Booklist