Choice Review
In this culinary paean, award-winning cookbook author and former celebrated chef Goldstein defines the seminal food revolution of the 1980s-90s in America and pays homage to scores of unheralded food producers who contributed to it. Originating in California and credited primarily to Alice Waters and a few other superluminaries, this revolution took on the eastern culinary establishment, the French, and, of course, Chef Boyardee. Scoffing Escoffier along with canned food, it was characterized by fresh, local, and seasonal ingredients and close, warm relationships among producers, and between producers and consumers. Goldstein constructs portraits of the revolution's leaders, primarily through their own words. They are courageous, generous, innovative, persistent autodidacts, and passionately dedicated to eradicating the dreary Eurocentric foodscape of American cuisine. In one chapter, the author makes a valiant attempt to define the highly amorphous term "California cuisine," contrasting northern California cooking with its southern counterpart. Other chapters focus on the rise of the open kitchen, the role of the menu as food narrative, and the increasing presence of women on the culinary landscape. Despite its frequently effusive tone, this volume is highly readable and a valuable introduction to an event that has changed American views about food and eating. Summing Up: Highly recommended. All readers. D. M. Gilbert formerly, Maine Maritime Academy
Library Journal Review
The now mainstream preference for fresh, seasonal, local foods has its roots in the development of California cuisine. In this thorough account, chef, restaurateur, and food writer Goldstein, the winner of the James Beard Award for Best Chef in California and the Lifetime Achievement Award from Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, chronicles this revolution and its pioneers. In the 1970s, a handful of passionate, innovative cooks and food producers began adopting a new approach to food. The result, later known as California cuisine, not only affected food but also agriculture, the wine industry, service, and restaurant design. Chefs sought out fresh, seasonable, and sustainable ingredients, while conventional cooking equipment and kitchen setups started to change, as chefs favored the open kitchen and tools such as wood-burning ovens. The conventional hierarchical kitchen brigade was abandoned for a more collaborative model, and women began breaking into male-dominated kitchens. Many may be familiar with Alice Waters and her legendary restaurant, Chez Panisse, but Goldstein and coauthor Brown (principal editor, Univ. of California Press) introduce readers to almost 200 other chefs, artisans, and farmers who have been a part of this movement. VERDICT An engaging history of a culinary revolution that has had enormous influence over the entire country.-Melissa Stoeger, Deerfield P.L., IL (c) Copyright 2013. Library Journals LLC, a wholly owned subsidiary of Media Source, Inc. No redistribution permitted.