Choice Review

McWilliams (English, US Naval Academy) presents a 48-entry history of American foods, from apple pie through Waldorf salad. Some entries consider national icons such as the hamburger or peanut butter and jelly, while others focus on regional specialties such as Philadelphia cheesesteak or Brunswick stew. The book begins with a whirlwind history of American food culture, and the entries follow alphabetically. Each entry includes a few endnotes, suggestions for further reading, and, where appropriate, historical or contemporary recipes (more would be welcome). McWilliams's accessible yet erudite writing style makes for great storytelling, and the history seems sound. Historians may be frustrated by an abundance of secondary sources in the notes. Despite its alphabetical organization, the book is not encyclopedic. While McWilliams chooses food from a range of US food cultures, the inclusion of other key American dishes like chitterlings, Spam musubi, Hawaiian plate lunch, wild rice, and chop suey would have been welcome. The Story is a useful complement to Andrew F. Smith's Eating History, (CH, Mar'10, 47-3781), which focuses on key innovations rather than specific foods. Summing Up: Recommended. Students of all levels, professionals/practitioners, and general readers. J. M. Deutsch CUNY Kingsborough Community College