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CHAPTER 1 VEGETARIAN CURIOUS Deborah Madison and Cooking from Your Garden There is perhaps no chef more celebrated for her love of vegetables than Deborah Madison. As the author of the definitive text on vegetarian cooking (that would be Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, published in 1997), plus more than a dozen other vegetable-forward cookbooks, Deborah has carved a career out of meatless recipes over the past 4 decades. "You cannot be too strict about things. You never know what's going to change." After cooking with Alice Waters at Chez Panisse in the late 1970s, Deborah opened Greens, an acclaimed vegetarian restaurant borne out of the San Francisco Zen Center, in 1979. She launched a Slow Food chapter in Santa Fe, near where she now lives, and is the former manager of the Santa Fe Farmers Market. Her many accolades include awards from the James Beard Foundation and the International Association of Culinary Professionals. And through it all, she's remained impossibly grounded. Take the way she describes what she grows in her garden. What begins as a simple list quickly escalates into a catalog that mirrors the fresh produce section at your local health food store, with a side of earnest commentary: spinach, chard, okra, kale, collards, squash, turnips ("my husband's a Southerner, so I plant turnip greens for him"), asparagus, artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, heirloom tomatoes (up to 18 different varieties at one point, now down to 5: "that's really enough"), rhubarb, and peas. That's just a sampling. And then there are the herbs. She grows lovage, chervil, cilantro ("hard to grow because it bolts fast"), tarragon, oregano, basil, sage, rosemary, salad burnet, thyme, sorrel, parsley, and chives. Many gardeners will grumble and tell you that mint has taken over their gardens, springing up anywhere there's space and a trickle of water. But Deborah will tell you with a laugh, "I have a hard time growing mint!" Summer is her favorite time to experiment. "This year I planted corn and sorghum. I always like to try something I've never done before," she says. Past experiments include growing cumin, caraway, and anise. What she doesn't grow herself, she happily picks up at her local farmers' market. "It always seems like magic." So while the Deborah Madison of today still loves her vegetables, another factor has influenced what she eats and cooks lately: Her husband, Patrick, was diagnosed with cancer. In all her years of cooking, never before has it been so clearly in the name of nourishment. "I'm just trying to give him strength," she says. It has been the ultimate lesson in listening to what the body wants, and not being too rigid in our food rules. "Everything has changed since my husband has had cancer," she says. He used to steer clear of sauces; now he loves them (try the tomato sauce on page 9). He really likes black cod, so now she makes that once a week. When a friend gave her a bunch of chicken broth, they tried the broth for nutrition's sake, even though Patrick isn't a chicken fan. "Everyone has to figure out for themselves what works, and not be afraid to see that change," she says. "Changes happen in life. So you look to somebody for inspiration and to pep up your own cooking." Seasonal Strategy You can't talk about the origins of the farm-to-table movement and not talk about Deborah Madison. When she opened Greens Restaurant in San Francisco in 1979, it had one of the very first farm-driven menus in the United States. Greens is also considered one of the first, if not the first, high- end vegetarian restaurants in the country. As the movement to cook with local, seasonal foods has gone mainstream, Deborah still adheres to many of the same principles as those early days. "Our tastes really come alive when we eat seasonally," she says. And depending on where you live, eating seasonally might mean eating a lot of sweet potatoes in the winter, or asparagus in the spring, or tomatoes in the summer. But don't think of that as limiting, Deborah says. "Repetition is really okay!" Because that's how you get the best ingredients, which yield the best dishes. "That's the prime stuff," says Deborah. DEBORAH MADISON PANTRY STAPLES Always olive oil and lots of different vinegars. Sea salts. Things I pick up from farmers' markets when I travel, like apple jelly from Vermont and wild mushroom salt from Maine. I like my cupboard to be simple. FOREVER MEAL Avocados. They don't even grow here! I love them. I taught a class in Goleta, California, and they set a table in the avocado orchard. Just lovely. FOOD RITUAL If I go to the farmers' market and buy a bunch of beets, immediately I wash them off and steam them; then they're ready to use. Lettuce is the same. I wash it, dry it really well, and keep it in a towel in a bag in the refrigerator. Then I know we'll have salad. Unless you set aside the time to pick it and wash it, it just won't happen. I want to eat a good salad. I try to do things that make that happen. HEALTHY-EATING TIP You cannot be too strict about things. You have no idea what's going to change. RECIPES BY DEBORAH MADISON Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Shallots with Black Rice This is the kind of dish that can go in any number of directions. The roasted Brussels sprouts with the shallots are delicious on their own, but they can take other additions, such as pistachios or pine nuts, cheeses from a good blue to ricotta salata to goat cheese, or roasted red peppers. Alternatively, you can add the rice and vinaigrette to make a heartier dish that might just work as a main for 2 or 3 people or a side dish for more. Either way, it's a handsome dish. Start with the rice, then go on to the Brussels sprouts, and finally make the vinaigrette while they're roasting. Choose the smallest sprouts-they're the sweetest. SERVES 2 TO 4 1/2 cup black rice Sea salt 1 1/2 cups water 14 ounces small (about the size of a hazelnut) Brussels sprouts 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 very large shallot, cut lengthwise into 1/2"-wide slices 1/4 teaspoon caraway seeds or 1 heaping teaspoon fresh or dried oregano 1 tablespoon large capers, rinsed and squeezed dry Finely grated zest of 1 Eureka lemon (not a Meyer-you'll want the acid) 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more to finish 1 clove garlic, minced or £ded until creamy 1 heaping teaspoon prepared mustard RINSE THE RICE in a fine-mesh sieve under cold running water until the water runs clear. Put the rice in a small pot with a few pinches of salt and the water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, covered, until the rice is tender but still a bit chewy, about 35 minutes. This may be enough water exactly, but if there's excess, pour it off. If it's not enough and the rice isn't yet done, add a few tablespoons more and cook for 5 minutes longer. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Slice the smaller Brussels sprouts in half lengthwise. Any larger ones should be sliced into thirds. Rinse well, drain, then put in a bowl and toss with 2 tablespoons of the oil, the shallot, caraway seeds or oregano, capers, and a few pinches of salt. Spread the vegetables on a baking sheet, turning the Brussels sprouts so that the cut sides are facing down; this will help them brown evenly. Roast for 12 minutes, turn the vegetables with a wide spatula, then roast for another 10 minutes. (The vegetables are delicious just like this, so if you want a simple meal, you can stop right here and serve them hot and juicy.) In a bowl, combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, garlic, mustard, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Whisk in the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. It's okay if the vinaigrette is on the tart side. When the Brussels sprouts are done roasting, transfer them to a serving bowl and fold in the cooked rice and the vinaigrette. Taste and add additional lemon juice, if desired. Roasted Cauliflower with Tomato Sauce and Feta I think of cauliflower as a good fall and winter vegetable, in part because that's when I want the oven on, as opposed to in the summer, and roasting is a good way to bring out the flavor of this mild vegetable. Since cauliflower can be rather bland, I tend to pair it with other elements that are more zingy. Here it's a tomato sauce seasoned with capers, honey, and a bit of cinnamon, plus a garnish of pungent, salty feta cheese and a shower of parsley for its clean flavor and lively color. SERVES 4 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1/2 yellow onion, finely diced 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 can (15 ounces) pureed tomatoes 2 teaspoons honey 1 heaping tablespoon salt-packed capers, rinsed Sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 large head cauliflower (about 1 1/2 £ds) Chunk of feta cheese Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley START BY MAKING the tomato sauce: Warm 3 tablespoons of the oil in a small saucepan. Add the onion and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 10 minutes, adding the oregano and cinnamon after the first few minutes. When the onion is soft, add the tomatoes, honey, and capers and simmer for 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Cut the cauliflower into small florets, dice the core, and combine the two in a bowl. Toss with the remaining 3 tablespoons oil and a few pinches of salt. Spread the cauliflower on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes. Turn using a wide spatula and roast for 15 minutes, or longer if needed, until golden brown and tender. Spoon the tomato sauce in the center of a warm serving platter or divide among 4 plates. Place the roasted cauliflower over the sauce, then crumble the cheese and scatter the parsley over the top. Serve warm. "Changes happen in life. So you look to somebody for inspiration and to pep up your own cooking." Einkorn Spaghetti with Caramelized Onions and Ricotta Salata I always have a lot of arugula in my yard because it self-sows like crazy. It's hot and spicy and stands up well to the robust einkorn spaghetti and the slowly cooked onions. Depending on how much arugula you add and whether you let it cook down or not, this dish can end up being something of a cross between a pasta salad and a regular hot pasta dish. When you slowly cook red onions in a cast-iron skillet, they take on a burnished appearance and their sweetness is emphasized. Start them first so you don't have to rush. They should be fully cooked in the end, not raw. I leave the onions in big, bold rings, but you can chop them into smaller pieces if you like. As is, this is a simple pasta, but there are variations suggested below to augment its flavors and heft. SERVES 4 TO 6 4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more to finish 2 large red onions, sliced crosswise into rounds about 3/8" thick Sea salt Freshly ground pepper 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, divided, plus more to finish 12 ounces einkorn spaghetti 4 handfuls of arugula Chunk of ricotta salata, thinly sliced Chunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Excerpted from Wanderlust Find Your True Fork: Journeys in Healthy, Delicious, and Ethical Eating by Jeff Krasno, Maria Zizka, Grace Edquist All rights reserved by the original copyright owners. Excerpts are provided for display purposes only and may not be reproduced, reprinted or distributed without the written permission of the publisher.