Critique du Publishers Weekly
In the spirit of Nouvelle Cuisine, this beautifully illustrated volume introduces a light but faithful rendition of the traditionally heavy Viennese cookery. New York-based chefs Grunauer and Kisler perform some 160 recipes adroitly, with each dish thoughtfully prepared and skillfully presented. Especially creative are the seafood selections: salmon steak in puff pastry with a sorrel sauce; striped bass studded with fennel with a littleneck clam sauce; Coho baby salmon with glazed grapes. Elegant veal preparations feature sliced veal steaks in morel sauce with potato dumplings; medallions of veal with asparagus sabayon in Riesling sauce; and the traditional paprikaschnitzel. Sweetbreads receive special attention in cream soup with herbs and sweetbread cubes, and in sauteed sweetbread and chicken mousse dumplings in vermouth sauce. Glorious Austrian desserts are concisely described: fruit dumplings, apple strudel, farmer cheese crepes with warm vanilla sauce. Professional chefs will find this book particularly attractive since a majority of the dishes are quick sautes. Friedman translated material from the German. (November 6) (c) Copyright PWxyz, LLC. All rights reserved
Critique de Booklist
All restaurant food has begun to look the same: an assortment of vivid vegetables skillfully sculpted, portions of meat carefully poised on pools of glistening sauces, artful garnishes coyly arranged. Food moves away from its regional and ethnic roots to a common international standard. So it is with this new Viennese cookbook. Mussels and papaya in Pommery mustard sauce does not even vaguely reflect the native produce of the Vienna Woods. This doesn't make it bad food or bad cooking; it just means that it mirrors the international style. On the other hand, Grunauer and Kisler have managed to bring echoes of Viennese cooking into the new style by use of some traditional Austrian hallmarks such as pickle juices and fresh game. These restaurant recipes require expensive ingredients and careful cooking, as the illustrations indicate. For comprehensive cookery collections. MK. 641.59436'13 Cookery, Austrian / Cookery Austria Vienna [CIP] 87-9253
