Critique du Publishers Weekly

Algerian-born Mazouz, chef and owner of the titular London restaurant, offers a vivid immersion into the Maghreb region?made up of Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria?with this elegant, temptingly illustrated cookbook. The chef?s lyrical introduction, historical and cultural background on North Africa, an explanation of the region?s cuisine (it emerged from Jewish, Arab, Turkish, French and Spanish influences) and a glossary of herbs and spices precede the book?s 90 recipes. The extensive chapter of Moroccan recipes details a range of salads, desserts, tagines and couscous dishes, many accompanied by information on the food?s cultural context and all with a vibrant photo. Most of the recipes are traditional, like the pigeon pastilla, a ?sweet and spicy? meat pie, and harira, a thick, rich soup eaten by Muslims during Ramadan, but Mazouz also includes modern Momo innovations such as fillet of John Dory with confit aubergines and polenta. The chapters for Tunisia and Algeria are shorter but no less appetizing, with appetizing basics like a Tunisian version of couscous with seven vegetables and lhem lahlou, an Algerian sweet lamb stew. Mazouz deliberately omits recipes that might be inaccessible for Westerners (no chicken?s feet or stuffed tripe, for example), and most ingredients should be readily available. Despite the clarity of the recipes, though, some home cooks might be daunted by the preparation required, from steaming couscous three times to folding thin, delicate pastry sheets. Even if the sumptuousness on display here doesn?t convince readers to make the effort, they should be tantalized by this culinary exploration of North Africa. (Sept.) Copyright 2005 Reed Business Information.